The San Cristobal Blues

At 7000 ft. (A little higher than Denver), tucked away in the Sierra Madre, is the colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas. As a major fort for the conquistadors to tame the evil Mayan people, San Cris was founded in the 16th century, and still has some of it's original buildings. Don't be fooled by the heavy Spanish arquetectural, this place is dominated by other races.

1. Indigenous - The Indian people do not mix with Europeans, thier blood line is still very pure.
2. Mexicans - We are in Mexico
3. Europeans - In an order somewhat like this
Italians (Excellent Italian food and doods in high heels)
French (A lot of cafes)
Gringo (Just passing)
4. 5 Peace Corps Volunteers

So I bet you are asking yourself:
Kyle you just blogged Palenque, why another one in the same day?
Well, eventhough I've been here for 5 days, under the protection of CIA agent/PC Vol Ray Blakney, I was sick for a good 2.5 days. It could of been the cold weather, the over-touristing, the welcome party (red red wiine), or a combo, but it happened, and it was prolly for the best, the rest was welcomed.

What did you do with your 2.5 well days?
Bike overhaul, vacuumed, and took a couple of tours.

Here are some pics of the town, there is a lot more to see, but my time was a little strapped.

San Cristobal

Bikers Note
Bike status has gone from great to OK. First, the chain has obvious rust problems, I attribute this to the salt of the sand and the humidity of the coast over the last month. I was cleaning it every week, gas or diesel with a good lubing, but it looks like every 3 days might be a better schedule.
The the 3-4 small gears on the rear cassette are slightly misaligned (I don't want to use the word bent), it isn't very obvious, but after hours of adjusting, consulting and observing (with 2 bike mechanics), we are pretty sure that is the case. I guess I'll go slower, naaaa, shift with more care, ok.

Tour 1 - Lakes of Montebello and El Chiflon
First the Lakes of Montebello, a system of 59 interconnected volcanic crater lakes known for thier depths (120 meters in some spots), and their varying colors (due to depth and sediment differences). 7 are accesible by car, we stopped at 5, and if they are any indication of the other 54, I'm pumped they made this place a reserve.

Lakes of Montebello

Next stop El Chiflon. Chiapas has snow capped mountians, jungle, beach and desert, a little like Texas, but about a fifth of the size. Where the mountains end and the coast begins, you find some incredible water falls, the king of the region is El Chiflon. Check out these pics.

El Chiflon

At the end of this tour the fever hit me hard, and the 2 and a half day hybernation began.
When I ate through all my rations, I decided to leave the house, I went to the Supèr Mas for my staple food, sandwhiches and bananas. Walking in I see this super hotty in one of the aisles, but looking like (and prolly smelling like) I just slept for 2 days straight, I stayed clear of all people and headed for the bananas. Turning around with a funky bunch in my hand, there she was, we had an abnormal 2 second moment, and then the recognition, it was la bella de Australia, Nalini, what a coincidence (if you believe in them). She successfully made it out of Laguna Miramar and up to San Cristobal, and was picking up some treats for the trip to Spain. We talked a bit and then parted ways again. I felt pretty good from that moment on and went to the tourist agency and booked the 2nd tour.

Side Note, The "others"
There are other people doing tours of Mexico (backpack & bike) around me, and they are usually just days in front of me (its tough to hear about people days behind you, but they are probably there). Along the coast, there was an American girl doing the same route as me on bike, at all the stops they talk of how she just passes, and then there was an American bike couple from the states maybe a week ahead of me. The people on the coastal route say about once every 2 weeks somebody passes on bike doing a tour, they usually go on to the Yucatan. Now that I'm on the Ruta Maya, I'm seeing backpakers (like Nalini) and hippies over and over again, non americans, and they continue on to Guatemala, usually Tikal. The geological divide between these tourists are the mountiains to get to San Cristobal from Palanque, they are notoriously long (4.5 hours in bus uphill, 3-4 days in bike), narrow, and full of traffic (only one way in). I'm bucking the norm by busing in and out, this is me being safe like I promised my momma.

Tour 2 - Sumidero Canyon and Chiapa de Corzo
Sumidero Canyon, this has been one of the highlights of my trip. The pics do not do it justice, it is a genuine experience to ride a boat thru there, here is the link.

Sumidero Canyon

Leaving the canyon you go to Chiapas de Corzo, the first Spanish settlement in Chiapas, 30 days older than San Cristobal. It is not a big place, but some of it's Spanish arquitecture dates back as early as 1544 (Ex-convent of Santa Cruz) and a river runs thru it. That and its large spaces with the small pueblo feel make for a pleasant stroll.

Chiapa de Corzo

That is it for Chiapas, I'm on the midnight bus to Palanque tonight and will be in the Yucatan Peninsula before Al Roker tells yall about the wonders of the Squash Festival in Wazoo, Wyoming.

Most likely stops in the next few weeks

Champoton, Campache -> Campache, Campache -> Ruta Puk (ruins featuring Uxmal) -> Merida -> Chichen Itza -> Cancun -> The Island of Women (this is not a lie) -> Playa de Carmen -> Cozumel -> Tulum -> Chetumal -> Belize

Just your average Mayan bike ride

The wheels of the stallion are rolling, I'm well over 1000km and averaging about 100km a day, which is comfortable (as one can be on a bike seat) and can hit major pueblos in the region. Immediately after the last blog I headed into the Pantanos de Centla, 6,600 sq. miles of wetland reserve. It runs from Frontera, Tabasco to Jonuta, Tabasco, and nothing in between but birds, turtles, crocs and water. Stayed in the reserve the first night with a family that runs some cabins called El Negro Chon righ by the reserve's museum/park La Casa de Agua, they didn't have any power at the time so they let me camp there for free. The devious little kids of the family took my bamboo flag and lost it, chalk up another item up on the lost chart. This little family, besides being kind and giving, is an example of how families living in reserves successfully change their lives to adapt to their new conditions. They were wild game hunters and fishermen, and now that the animals are protected and the fishing is restricted, they have turned to ecotourism (trained by govt. programs) and are doing as well or better than before.
The 2 pueblos of the wetlands don't have much to offer, they lay 112km apart and there is no civilization between them, so pack rations appropriately and enjoy the ride.
Unfortunately when I was downloading my photos in the internet cafe in Jonuta, there was a power outage, all the photos were lost and some of my journal. I did take some photos on the way out to give the readers an idea of what it's like.

Pantanos de Centla

Now To the heart of Mayan civilization, the impressive ruins of Palenque. First of all, the modern city of Palenque isn't much, it's good for supplies and as a travel hub, but all the sites are around it. If you are going to stay in Palanque, hands down, the only place to stay, a collection of cabins and restaurants by the ruins known as El Panchan.

This place has a neat story, told to me by the owner and world renown Mayan historian Moises Morales, 82 years old but kicking strong, the day I arrived he renewed his driver's license. He is a small brown indigenous man from Palenque, he started his career as one of the first guides in Palenque, learned French and English from text books, and while working with various arquiologist he became the authority on Mayan history, he later worked all over the world with various journals and magazines. Around 40 he married a flight attendant from the states and had 6 kids. She took them to Austin and he stayed in Palenque, during their divorce negotiations he gave her and the kids everything and started his life again at 50. He was given 7 hectares (20 acres) of land by the ruins, reforested it, and after 25 years he has the only successfully reforested land in Chiapas. With the newly reforested land, he gave each child one hectare, and saved one for himself to live on. His children built cabins and 2 restaurants in the epicenter of the land, and have created what is now the the world famous El Panchan. I camped on his son's land, Beto, and bought tours from his daughter Cheryl. Besides the jungle environment, the occupants are people from all over the world and all social classes, this creates a unique cosmopolitan atmosphere. As you can imagine this place attracts a good number of hippies, but Moises doesn't let them stay for free, he puts them to work, they are either selling stuff, cleaning, or the entertainment in the restaurant (musical jamming, fire dancing, and other general hippie activities).

Day 1 of 3 Palanque Ruins
A giant complex of temples and plazas, built in the classic Mayan period 600 - 900 A.D, when their civilization was at it's peak in enlightenment. King Pakal (died at 82) and his sons built most of what is seen today. The pictures of the ruins speak for themselves

Palanque

I met a super cool couple from Lithuania, Paul and Goda, and some Mayan indigenous that live in the pueblo behind the pyramids. The people that sell artifacts in the park, are egidos, like Indians on reservations but on their original land and not in some remote desert area, so they have rights to sell their art in the park. They mainly sell leather mats that are painted or burned with some sort of scene, calendar, or hieroglyphic pertaining to the area.
I passed my last 2 evenings in Palanque putting down beers and tequilas with the Lithuanian couple.

Paul first worked selling used car in Siberia at 18, later as a bouncer in various bars in Dublin then as a furniture mover in the Baltimore, during that whole time he practiced martial arts and supposedly won some championships. His wife went to school in Lithuania and Sweden, she also spent time working in the states. After 5 hours of politics, jokes, breaking stereotypes, and pizza, we became pretty good friends, maybe setting up a future bike trip through Russia?

Day 2 of 3 Yaxchilan and Bonampak
A whole day of cars and boats will get you to the arquilogical sights of Bonampak and Yaxchilan. Both were built in the classic Mayan period by kings and queens with names like Jaguar Shield, Juguar Bird, and Lord. The sites are still covered by jungle, infested with the howling growler monkey and bats have occupied a majority of the temples. These sites are unique in their tall flat lime stone structures called stelas that tell of the civilization's history. Bonampak is even more unique in that one of the temples frescos are in very good condition. To the photos...

Yaxchilan

Bonampak

Day 3, Water
Today's tour was full of water falls and rivers, not only known for their clarity and size, but their cameos in the first Predator movie. Misol-Ha, a 90 foot waterfall, was our first stop and is also the site of Arnold's jump to escape the alien's grasp.

Misol-Ha

This is also where I met my tour partner for the day, the beauty from down under known as Nalini, a 24 yr. old Austrailian aero engineer that is doing a backpack tour Mexico.

The second stop was Agua Clara, a bright turquoise river crossed by a suspension bridge, or better known in the Predator world as Billy's last stand.

Agua Clara

Not much here, you cross the bridge and then take a crude raft back to the other side, perfect for the 30 minutes they allow you. The last stop was Agua Azul.

Agua Azul

This was a large system of waterfalls with various places to eat and swim. Here we swam for a good hour, sunned and enjoyed the Mayan cuisine. 2 hours later I parted from the my new Austrailian buddy and Palenque in a bus to the cosmopolitan mountain hamlet of San Cristobal de las Casas.

The Hello-Goodbye kiss Matrix
Belgien, Mexican, Lithuania - 1 kiss
French, Hungarian - 2 kisses
American, English - 0 kisses

Note on asking for distances
If you ask someone how far something is you will get the distance in time (especially in pueblos).
If they give you the time a bus takes to reach its destination, double that time for a bike, if the time is by car, triple it.

Not only maps but now road signs can not be completely trusted. When highways are built or destroyed, all signs stay up. Useful and new metal signs are sometimes taken down by poor people, apparently they are good for making tortillas.

When it comes to leaving your stuff somewhere, some Mexicans will say, "Don't worry, nothing will hapen to it here (no pasa nada)", you should follow that up by "Would you leave your stuff here?".

Sandal Lineage
Chacos -> Sport -> Mike

The Lost Highway

After 2 long days on the road, 100km and 70km (Trip Meter is at 800km), I left the mountains and arrived at the coastal pueblo of Coatzacoalcos, or better known as the birth place of Selma Hayek, and yes there are many beautiful Mexican women here. Inbetween Coatza, Veracruz and Paraiso, Tabasco (Paradise) lies the lost highway. It was damaged in some parts and in others just plain lost after hurricane Roxane some years ago. The view is breathtaking, you teeter between a lake on the right and a blue sea on the left, when you lose sight of both you are suffocated by coconut groves. The secret to crossing the lost highway is to concentrate on the scenery, because if you let the road conditions get to you, you'll leave cursing like a sailor. There are sandpits every kilometer (road bikes don't do sand), parts where the road disappeared and you ask people to cross thier yards, coconut/palm covered trails, coliche roads, and there is always the sun and 100 degree weather.
I loved it, made some friends, one family took me in for a night, camped one night on the beach, hung out with others that had to push their dirt bikes or mountain bikes as well, and best of all - almost traffic free (there is 1 bus route that risks it). The people say that the government wants to fix it one day, I say leave it and promote it as some sort of tourist attraction or start a bike event. Check er out

Lost Highway

From here I head on to Frontera, Tobasco then drop south to Palanque, Chiapas, I hope to blog more often, take care.

Update
I am now a Peace Corps Fellow at Western Illinois University, I start class August 6th in Macomb, Illinois for my MBA, I'm fired up about it, should put me back in Texas to celebrate the 4rth of July.

Recent Mexico Insights
1. If you are shoe size 9+, first ask the store if they cary that big of size before meandering its aisles.
2. Sunblock is only sold in pharmacies, and a lot more expensive than it is in the states.
3. Only bring clothes you can sweat a lot in.
4. Try to learn lyrics to more songs before doing long musicless bike rides

Losses
Camera - Stolen in Tecolutla, Veracruz
Flags - Fell off by the Costa Esmeralda
Cell phone - buried in dirt road by Alvarado, Veracruz
Chaco sandals - fell off bike in Catemaco, Veracruz

Gains
Dear and close friends all over the state of Veracruz
Experience traveling solo on a bicycle
Tons of pictures
Legs and Buns of steel (in just 30 days, only requires 5 hours a day)
Love and respect for the Mexican pueblo

Good Purchases I made in the states
1. Rearview mirror sunglass atachment (thank my stars for this guy every 10 seconds on the road)
2. Grey REI longsleeve shirt (I wear it 70% of the time, feels good, dries fast, breathes...)
3. Armidillo tires (haven't had a flat yet)
4. The bike (I've ran it through ALL terrains and it still runs like a low maintenance champ)
5. The air mattress (its length and funcion is perfect)
6. Tent (small and the optional top is excellent)
5. Crankbrothers multi tool (the best multi tool on the planet, check it out)
6. The best in chamois and seat technology (put lots of money in these objects and your buns and future family will thank you)

Questionable Equipment
1. My 3rd short sleeve cotton shirt (it is always too hot to wear)
2. Sleeping bag (it is too hot to use, it is now a pillow)
3. Look Clipless Pedals (this is tuff, they are great while riding because they are so wide, but I find myself walking in the shoes A LOT more than you are suppose to)
4, Crankbrothers speed lever (One simple bike lever is smaller and works just as good)

My new phone number
+052 - 442 - 334 - 4453

The Wizard of Catemaco

Semana Santa, the holiest of all vacations in Mexico, 2 weeks of city fold invading the beaches and pueblos, has come and gone, the kids are in school and their parents at their desk. I spent that week nestled in the coastal mountains of Los Tuxtlas. It is the last of the coastal jungles in Mexico and one of their only protected areas. It's birds range from the Eagle to the Tucan, lizards from the gecko to the iguana, mammals from monkeys to the puma and tons of other critters that won't let you sleep. My good friends Robin, his girlfriend Sara, and my ex Elda joined the Turk tour for their Semana Santa. We met up at La Bahia Escondida Sunday April 1st, and weren't prepared for the man in charge. A big jolly Swiss man with long hair, mustache and piercings. He claims that as a child he had a misunderstanding in his country and took off to Paraguay at 18 and has never been back. The man is an old hippy and a die hard conservationalist named Zasha, he spends his spare time educating kids about conservation and keeping vigil over his territory for PROFEPA (Mexican EPA, with a staff of 2 for all of Veracruz). His place is beautiful, just like all of lake Catemaco, it's lakeside jungle property with a view of the islands. "But don't take my word for it..."

La Bahia Escondida

After a couple of days partying with Zasha we moved north from there to Lake Sontecomapan. Since we had Robin's car I road my bike there without the trailer, it was wonderful until I lost one of my sandals that was poorly tied to my bike rack, not any sandal but a Chaco, the best sandals in the land. I knocked on many doors of the pueblo of Pozatlan, but nobody had seen the poor guy, some little fisherman probably picked it up thinking it was a small boat. I bought some 7 dollar "Sport" sandals in Catemaco and went on my way. Sontecomapan is another beautiful jungle infested lake lined with beaches and mangroves were it meets the Gulf. We stayed in an awesome little place called El Ranchol de los Amigos, a community of Mexicans and foriegners buyng to conserve it. Photos!!(clap, clap)...

El Rancho de los Amigos

After a night there we went to a little beach called Jicatel just north of Sontecompan and were we camped, swang in hammocks and camped, it was living. On the way out we met photographer, biologist and cabaña owner Felix Aguilar, he said he had some openings and we hit it up. The place is called Ecobiosfera, some huts on the side of a hill by the reserve St. Martin in the pueblo of Dos Amates. Before I go further, Catemaco is known for its Wizards, with the use of smoke they can cure you of anything, jealousy to cancer (they said this not me). Felix invited us to a party on this American looking lake house by the pueblo of Coyame. The owner, Pabo, is nice, we ate shrimp cocktail, drank beer and red wine, then he started talking about some mystical books and his talks with the Dali Lama, this freaked us out a little but we nodded our heads and listened. After the chat, he says, we are now going to do a cleansing ritual and leads us to a palapa, now we are really freaking out. While I was thinking "Red Punch" time, this guy pulled out a boom box and started dancing. It was awesome, we made a circle, he lead us in some dance cleansing ritual, first some African beats, followed by Mambo no. 5, then YMCA and finished with Bob Marely, this is my kind of wizard.
And yes, now I am clean. Cut to the pictures...

Ecobiosphera

We passed our last night together in the Ecobiosfera with a good ol bar b q with the other fellow residents of Ecobiosfera. Felix's brother n law, David, an American Vietnam vet, and soul searcher. What is a soul seracher? After Nam the guy travelled Europe, Africa, and Asia Minor looking for the meaning of it all, this guy is intense, he made his living playing guitar and selling pot, this dood had some stories, and some good jokes. Here is one....

An American and Mexican are duck hunting on the border, they both shoot the same duck and it falls in the Rio Grand. They pull at it for a while and decide that only a contest of strength that doesn't involve the duck can decide the true owner. They agree on crotch kicking. The American goes first, the Mexican kicks him in the nads, and the American takes it but is crying, the Mexican keeps at it, and the American falls at 63 nut jogs. The American gets up and dusts off his boot fot his kicks, then the Mexican throws the duck at him and says, "You win man, keep the f$&)ing duck, and look me up if you want to go hunting again".

It was good to have some friends around to share my experiences, but like all good things come to an end and I can hear the open road calling, sometimes it sounds like Whitesnake:
"Here I go again on my own, going down the only road I've ever known, like a ..."

If you are more old school, sometimes it sounds like Willie Nelson:
"Riding on the Spirit of New Orleans....." or "Livin on the road my friend..", well just about any Willie tune.