The San Cristobal Blues

At 7000 ft. (A little higher than Denver), tucked away in the Sierra Madre, is the colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas. As a major fort for the conquistadors to tame the evil Mayan people, San Cris was founded in the 16th century, and still has some of it's original buildings. Don't be fooled by the heavy Spanish arquetectural, this place is dominated by other races.

1. Indigenous - The Indian people do not mix with Europeans, thier blood line is still very pure.
2. Mexicans - We are in Mexico
3. Europeans - In an order somewhat like this
Italians (Excellent Italian food and doods in high heels)
French (A lot of cafes)
Gringo (Just passing)
4. 5 Peace Corps Volunteers

So I bet you are asking yourself:
Kyle you just blogged Palenque, why another one in the same day?
Well, eventhough I've been here for 5 days, under the protection of CIA agent/PC Vol Ray Blakney, I was sick for a good 2.5 days. It could of been the cold weather, the over-touristing, the welcome party (red red wiine), or a combo, but it happened, and it was prolly for the best, the rest was welcomed.

What did you do with your 2.5 well days?
Bike overhaul, vacuumed, and took a couple of tours.

Here are some pics of the town, there is a lot more to see, but my time was a little strapped.

San Cristobal

Bikers Note
Bike status has gone from great to OK. First, the chain has obvious rust problems, I attribute this to the salt of the sand and the humidity of the coast over the last month. I was cleaning it every week, gas or diesel with a good lubing, but it looks like every 3 days might be a better schedule.
The the 3-4 small gears on the rear cassette are slightly misaligned (I don't want to use the word bent), it isn't very obvious, but after hours of adjusting, consulting and observing (with 2 bike mechanics), we are pretty sure that is the case. I guess I'll go slower, naaaa, shift with more care, ok.

Tour 1 - Lakes of Montebello and El Chiflon
First the Lakes of Montebello, a system of 59 interconnected volcanic crater lakes known for thier depths (120 meters in some spots), and their varying colors (due to depth and sediment differences). 7 are accesible by car, we stopped at 5, and if they are any indication of the other 54, I'm pumped they made this place a reserve.

Lakes of Montebello

Next stop El Chiflon. Chiapas has snow capped mountians, jungle, beach and desert, a little like Texas, but about a fifth of the size. Where the mountains end and the coast begins, you find some incredible water falls, the king of the region is El Chiflon. Check out these pics.

El Chiflon

At the end of this tour the fever hit me hard, and the 2 and a half day hybernation began.
When I ate through all my rations, I decided to leave the house, I went to the Supèr Mas for my staple food, sandwhiches and bananas. Walking in I see this super hotty in one of the aisles, but looking like (and prolly smelling like) I just slept for 2 days straight, I stayed clear of all people and headed for the bananas. Turning around with a funky bunch in my hand, there she was, we had an abnormal 2 second moment, and then the recognition, it was la bella de Australia, Nalini, what a coincidence (if you believe in them). She successfully made it out of Laguna Miramar and up to San Cristobal, and was picking up some treats for the trip to Spain. We talked a bit and then parted ways again. I felt pretty good from that moment on and went to the tourist agency and booked the 2nd tour.

Side Note, The "others"
There are other people doing tours of Mexico (backpack & bike) around me, and they are usually just days in front of me (its tough to hear about people days behind you, but they are probably there). Along the coast, there was an American girl doing the same route as me on bike, at all the stops they talk of how she just passes, and then there was an American bike couple from the states maybe a week ahead of me. The people on the coastal route say about once every 2 weeks somebody passes on bike doing a tour, they usually go on to the Yucatan. Now that I'm on the Ruta Maya, I'm seeing backpakers (like Nalini) and hippies over and over again, non americans, and they continue on to Guatemala, usually Tikal. The geological divide between these tourists are the mountiains to get to San Cristobal from Palanque, they are notoriously long (4.5 hours in bus uphill, 3-4 days in bike), narrow, and full of traffic (only one way in). I'm bucking the norm by busing in and out, this is me being safe like I promised my momma.

Tour 2 - Sumidero Canyon and Chiapa de Corzo
Sumidero Canyon, this has been one of the highlights of my trip. The pics do not do it justice, it is a genuine experience to ride a boat thru there, here is the link.

Sumidero Canyon

Leaving the canyon you go to Chiapas de Corzo, the first Spanish settlement in Chiapas, 30 days older than San Cristobal. It is not a big place, but some of it's Spanish arquitecture dates back as early as 1544 (Ex-convent of Santa Cruz) and a river runs thru it. That and its large spaces with the small pueblo feel make for a pleasant stroll.

Chiapa de Corzo

That is it for Chiapas, I'm on the midnight bus to Palanque tonight and will be in the Yucatan Peninsula before Al Roker tells yall about the wonders of the Squash Festival in Wazoo, Wyoming.

Most likely stops in the next few weeks

Champoton, Campache -> Campache, Campache -> Ruta Puk (ruins featuring Uxmal) -> Merida -> Chichen Itza -> Cancun -> The Island of Women (this is not a lie) -> Playa de Carmen -> Cozumel -> Tulum -> Chetumal -> Belize